Au Cheval ★9.5

Au Cheval: The Burger That Launched a Thousand Pilgrimages

Au Cheval calls itself a diner, which is a bit like a Stradivarius calling itself a fiddle. The New York outpost of the Chicago original serves what Bon Appétit once suggested might be the best cheeseburger in the country — and a menu of diner classics rebuilt with fine-dining obsession, from mornay-drenched fries to roasted marrow bones.

The Concept

Restaurateur Brendan Sodikoff opened the first Au Cheval in Chicago’s West Loop in 2012 under his Hogsalt Hospitality group, and the two-to-three-hour burger lines became national folklore. In 2019 the diner-luxe formula arrived in New York, hidden down a graffiti-tagged Tribeca alley with no real signage — you find it by the queue and the warm glow. The idea has never changed: take humble diner food and execute it with the precision of a tasting-menu kitchen.

What to Order

The cheeseburger, obviously — thin griddled prime-beef patties stacked under sharp American cheddar, pickles, onions and dijonnaise on a toasted bun; regulars add a fried farm egg and thick-cut peppered bacon. But the supporting cast deserves respect: a fried house-made bologna sandwich that converts skeptics, General Jane’s honey-fried chicken dusted with chili and sesame, crispy fries under a blanket of mornay sauce, roasted marrow bones, and a shaved prime rib sandwich with Gruyère and au jus. Weekend brunch brings steak and eggs and chilaquiles; dessert means chocolate cream pie or a root beer float.

The Space

Dim and clubby rather than chrome-and-neon: dark wood, tufted leather booths, a zinc-topped bar, tiled floors and an open kitchen turning out burgers like a watchmaker’s bench. Downstairs hides The Bar — a moodier walk-in room with its own soundtrack, pouring cocktails and serving the full menu to those waiting or those in the know.

Who It’s For

Burger completists, out-of-town guests who need one unforgettable casual meal, late-night carnivores, and anyone who wants to see how far a diner menu can be pushed.

Good to Know

Do I need a reservation? The dining room now takes bookings and they go quickly; The Bar downstairs stays walk-in only.

Single or double burger? Go double with bacon and egg — the proportions are engineered for it.

How long are the waits? Without a booking, prime evenings can stretch long; the classic move is drinks downstairs until your table is called.

Is there anything for vegetarians? Slim pickings — salads, fries and egg dishes; this menu worships meat.

Is brunch worth it? Yes — weekends until mid-afternoon, and the burger is on that menu too.

Opening hours